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Broken Ear Support
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Please note:
There is a
modified version of this item for Cubs with cultivators
attached. Information will be added to this site soon.
In the mean time please specify which type you need. |
How many Cubs have
you seen with a cracked ear on the engine ? If you've been
around Cubs even for a short time you have probably seen way too
many.
Don't let it happen
to you!
KubKraft
is very happy to introduce this simple to install option for your
Cub.
Constructed of durable
7/8" steel rod this support is
designed to prevent cracking of the ears on your Cub engine.
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The left support is
perfectly formed to pass around the hydraulic
connections on your Cub. It easily connects to the front
ear and bolts to the rear with its rear bolt passing
through the torque tube.
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The right support makes
its way around the starter for rock solid protection.
Connection here is the same as the left with the
rear bolt passing through the torque tube and rear ear. |
Is it too late to save yours
from breakage?
Then you need to keep what you
have together.
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If your engine looks like this you have
problems. In this situation you can easily
break the left ear as well |
With
KubKraft's
Ear Support you can keep that block pulled together
Photos
courtesy of Ralph Napier
Ralphscubs.com |
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These supports are not designed to be a fix-all for a
totally destroyed ear. They are a tool to stiffen a
normally weak area of the Cub engine.
If the ear is completely
broke
KubKraft
suggests that
replacing the block itself would be best. These support
rods would prevent any front to back movement on a
broken/cracked ear, however it can not prevent up and
down movement, especially if the ear is completely broke
off. With the right side completely broken off, the left
side is the only thing holding the cub together. Welding
the ear back into place may possibly help the up and
down movement enough to get you by, provided the weld
job is successful. |
All hardware to install on your
Cub is included.
$89.95 plus shipping.
This includes new "O"rings and gaskets (t/c
and carb)
for the left side installion.
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All Ohio sales
are subject to Ohio sales tax |
Installation procedure
With the new style rods, you'll
remove the starter bolts and hold the front of the starter up while
screwing in the front half. Screw the rod in till the nut and washer
almost touch the engine ear. Now screw the second section onto the
front all the way, which allows room to slide the last piece into
place. Once you get the
back bolt hand started, you then tighten the big nut, making
sure the support rod is laying level.
Once the front section is
tightened down, you then adjust the turnbuckle feature until
the back section touches the back block ear. If you want, you can
place a feeler guage around .001-.002 between the back ear and the
rod, then when you remove the feeler guage and tighten the back
bolt, you'll place that same preload on the front ear.
The left side is easier to install if you just remove the t/c
manifold lines, along with the carb. You have to do too much prying
on the manifold lines to get the rod to rotate into place. Screw the
front half in till the nut/washer almost touches, then rotate the
rod outwards, allowing the back section to screw onto the front,
then rotate back into place and install the back bolt loose.
Once the back bolt is
loosely installed, you then tighten down the big nut up
front, again making sure the support rod is laying level with the
oil pan. Then adjust the back section till it touches the back
ear(or .001-.003 preload if you want). I think if you adjust the rod
till it just touches, soon as you torque down the back bolt, it
probably is equal to .001 or so anyways. I just don't want somone to
leave an 1/8" gap and torque down the back bolt. That would cause a
new set of problems .
The biggest thing is to
loose install the front and back before any tightening is done to
the front.
Right Side View
Left Side View
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